Tired of inefficient, humid, and costly cooling options? Discover this DIY portable air conditioner that offers a smarter, more effective alternative. Unlike conventional portable AC units, this innovative design provides several key advantages, making it an excellent choice for personal cooling needs.
With this system, you benefit from prolonged ice longevity, humidity-free air, and flexible placement options—perfect for customizing your environment. By utilizing simple, readily available materials such as PVC pipes, copper tubing, and a water pump, you can assemble a powerful cooling device tailored to your space requirements.
Key Advantages of this DIY Air Conditioner
- Extended Ice Durability: The design cleverly separates the fan from the ice reservoir, which significantly slows down the melting process. The fan directs air over a chilled copper coil filled with ice-cold water, ensuring longer-lasting cooling effects without the constant need for refilling ice.
- Dry Cooling Effect: Unlike traditional swamp coolers that increase ambient humidity, this system delivers cool, dry air. It circulates chilled water through the copper coil instead of blowing over ice directly, thus avoiding added moisture—ideal for humid climates or indoor environments requiring dry cool air.
- Flexible Placement: The separated fan and cooling unit can be positioned independently, providing unmatched versatility. You can place the fan on a table, shelf, or any convenient spot, while the cooler can be situated on the floor or tucked away in a less accessible area. The design accommodates a five-foot water pump rise and flexible tubing, enhancing adaptability.
Step 1: Materials List
- Copper tubing (O.D. 1/4 inch, 10-foot length)
- Small plastic tubing (e.g., Aquarium airline tubing, 25 feet)
- Large plastic tubing (Silicone tube 1/2 inch ID x 5/8 inch OD)
- Water pump (e.g., VIVOSUN 400 GPH Submersible Pump)
- Coleman 48-quart cooler
- VIVOSUN D4 4-inch inline duct ventilation fan (195 CFM)
- Copper cutter or pipe cutting tool
- 4-inch ABS pipe (2 ft)
- 3-inch PVC pipe (2 ft)
- Hose barb adapters (3/16 inch ID to 1/4 inch MIP, 1/2 inch ID to 3/8 inch MIP)
- Compression couplings (1/4 inch OD x 3/8 inch FIP, 1/4 inch OD x 1/4 inch FIP)
- Additional hardware: screws, drill bits (5/8 inch and 1/4 inch), crescent wrench, hammer, tape measure, towel
Step 2: Preparing the Copper Tubing
The copper coil acts as the core heat exchanger within your system. Use a 3-inch pipe as a guide to coil the copper tubing around, ensuring it fits snugly inside the 4-inch pipe. This method simplifies the coiling process, results in a uniform coil, and ensures optimal heat transfer efficiency. Carefully slide the coil into the larger pipe, making sure the fittings are properly attached for a secure connection.
Step 3: Attaching Fittings to Copper Tubing
Carefully attach the appropriate couplings to both ends of the copper coil. To prevent injury or damage, use a towel or glove when pressing fittings onto the copper. If resistance is felt, gently rotate or clamp with a wrench to ensure a tight fit. Never push fittings onto copper with your bare hands, as sharp edges can cause cuts. The copper coil functions as a heat exchanger: chilled water pumped through it absorbs heat from the passing air blown by the fan, effectively cooling the airflow before it exits the system.
Step 4: Assembling the Main Pipe
On the 4-inch PVC pipe, drill a 5/8-inch hole approximately 3 inches from one end for the larger return hose. About 3 inches from the other end, drill a 1/4-inch hole for the smaller tubing connected to the water pump. Connect the small and large plastic tubes to each end of the copper coil, then carefully insert the coil into the PVC pipe. Ensure the fittings and tubing are securely attached to prevent leaks and maintain proper water circulation.
Step 5: Mounting the Fan and Pipe
Attach the inline duct fan to one end of the 4-inch pipe. Drill pilot holes into both the fan and the pipe to facilitate secure mounting. Use screws to firmly fix the fan in place. For added stability, drill a pilot hole in the base of a wooden mount matching the fan and pipe dimensions. Secure the fan to the wooden base with screws, then attach the pipe to the fan, ensuring it is stable and properly aligned.
Step 6: Creating a Support Mount
Cut an 1×8-inch wooden plank to match the combined length of the fan and pipe assembly. Drill pilot holes aligned with the mounting points on the fan and pipe. Use screws to securely attach the fan and pipe to the wooden mount. Drill a front hole in the base aligned with a corresponding hole on the PVC pipe and insert a long screw (about 2.5 inches) to support the front of the pipe, ensuring stability during operation.
Step 7: Preparing the Cooler
Drill a 5/8-inch hole in the cooler lid for the larger return hose and a 1/4-inch hole for the smaller pump hose. Place the submersible water pump inside the cooler and fill it with water to cover the pump completely. Run the hoses through the drilled holes, positioning the return hose just above the ice and water level to facilitate free water flow. Connect the main feed hose to the water pump, ensuring all connections are tight and leak-proof.
Step 8: Adding Ice and Water
Fill the cooler with ample ice and enough water to fully submerge the pump. The water pump circulates chilled water through the copper coil, while the fan blows air over the coil, transferring heat and producing cool, dry air. The return hose carries the warmed water back into the cooler, establishing a continuous cycle. This setup ensures sustained cooling performance with minimal maintenance, providing a portable and efficient cooling solution for various environments.
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